The Climber's Hand-Written Journal
of his Cross-country Bus Trip to Oregon
to begin his Out-spokin' Cross-Country Bicycle Trip
(At age 23)


Editors Note: This was The Climber's first trip to the West.

Key abbreviations:

TT => Total Time traveling on that day

TD => Total Distance covered that day

Total => Total Distance covered on the Trip by the end of that day

PTL => Praise the Lord

PTLA => Praise the Lord Anyway


Table of Contents

May 31 - Washington, D.C.
June 1 - Washington, D.C.
June 2 - Washington, D.C.
June 3 - Washington, D.C. to Knoxville, TN
June 4 - Knoxville, TN to Dallas, TX (CFNI)
June 5 - Dallas, TX to Amarillo, TX
June 6 - Amarillo, TX to Blue Arrow Campground in Rocky Mountain National Park, CO
June 7 - Rocky Mountain National Park, CO/Estes Park, CO (Bierstadt Lake, Bear Lake, Trail Ridge Rd., Alpine Visitor Center)
June 8 - Estes Park, CO to Alamosa, CO (South Park, Fairplay, Salida, San Luis Valley)
June 9 - Alamosa, CO to Petrified Forest National (now) Park, AZ (Wolf Creek Pass - Durango, CO - Aztec & Gallup, N.M.)
June 10 - Petrified Forest to Grand Canyon National Park (Painted Desert loop, Petrified Forest area, Newspaper Rock, Meteor Crater, Flagstaff)
June 11 - Grand Canyon National Park, AZ (Kaibab Trail, Inner Gorge, Phantom Ranch, Bright Angel Creek, Indian Garden)
June 12 - Grand Canyon National Park, AZ to Mt. Carmel Junction, UT
June 13 - Zion National Park (Angel's Landing hike)
June 14 - Zion National Park to Salt Lake City, UT
June 15 - Salt Lake City, UT to Grand Teton National Park, WY (Jenny Lake, Leigh Lake)
June 16 - Grand Teton National Park, WY (Colter Bay...)
June 17 - Grand Teton National Park, WY to Butte, MT
June 18 - Butte, MT to Portland, OR (Spokane, WA - Seattle, WA - Space Needle - Mt. Rainier)

May 31 - Washington, D.C.

My journal should begin today with my journey to Washington, D.C. to visit Diane. She pleaded and persuaded me to come see her before I left for my trip by giving me a free bus ticket. So today after packing all morning, working a few hours, and eating at Bonanza with Dad, I left by Greyhound at 5:06. I had a nice trip, but I was tired and it seemed long. With 5000 miles to go I better not be tired of bus travel yet!

Diane was not at the station on time, but got there at 9:25. We drove all over NW D.C., got lost, etc. and finally ended up at the house at 11:15. We stayed up until 3:30 playing Canasta. I had a pretty good time, but I wish there were more people around us.

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June 1 - Washington, D.C.

Today we got up somewhat late and walked to Sojourner's service, arriving at 11:10. It was a pretty neat service. Then we had lunch, cleaned up, and took off for the mall area by bus and foot. We went to the Archives, Nat. History & Science & Technology Museums. Had a neat time, but my legs got tired! It's fun being with Diane, but a little strange to spend all day with her. I had only taken her out on a date one time before, at home. PTLA. We got home then at 10:00 or soon after, played Canasta and ate popcorn until 12:15. It feels weird being all alone in this house with her!

TT: 0 TD: 0

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June 2 - Washington, D.C.

Despite the above notes, we did travel today...out to see my sister. That was fun despite missing our bus and having to pay twice. But let's not get ahead of ourselves. Diane and I got up just before 10 and made pancakes with homemade syrup for breakfast. Neither one turned out very well, but it was fun! Then we took the bus to Lafayette Park where I met Dave S. and played chess. Ah, such a beautiful park! It was relaxing and enjoyable. Oh, as for the chess game, I won of course!

Diane and I caught the subway, then took a bus from Rosslyn to Vienna. My sister met us in her Mercedes (Diane thought I was kidding when I said she was bringing one). Her daughter was sick, but my sister got her feeling better and we had a nice time chatting, fixing supper and eating, etc. It was back to D.C. on the 9:29 bus. Back at home we played more Canasta until about 1 or so. I won again... I still wonder how "interested" Diane is. She really doesn't have many prospects for a man. We get along, but some of our ideas about the US, politics, etc. differ so. Well, I'm not about to get too involved, only if God did it...

TT:0 TD: 0

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June 3 - Washington, D.C. to Knoxville, TN

Today the big journey began! Hallelujah! At long last the awaited day arrived! Diane and I left the house on foot about five till eight. We met three other girls who work downtown, and walked. At 8:45, time to part at the Greyhound station. I commented that Diane was the last friend and familiar face I'll see for quite awhile. But, with exciting journeys ahead, off I went. I was talking awhile to a lady from Staunton enroute and to a black fellow from Baltimore who works driving trucks for the government. He was out to make as much as he could before people could press him down too much. Interesting! In my hometown, Mom met me with a meal and lots of food. Loaded me down really! Then on to the South. In Lexington a lady from Sacramento with five girls ages 1 to 12 got on. We had quite a time chatting along the way. The 8-year-old was so talkative and friendly. She said she loved Jesus and hated Satan. I told her a story about Joseph. Then I also met a fellow from Venezuela who wanted to go to Tech to get his Masters. I shared some food with him and he seemed really impressed. Lastly, a fellow from Georgia who is studying to be a minister at Washington and Lee talked my ear off for two hours until we pulled into Knoxville at midnight...

TT: 14:45 TD: 511 Total 511

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June 4 - Knoxville, TN to Dallas, TX (CFNI)

After an hour's layover in Knoxville, we pulled out about 1 AM. I managed to sleep about 5 - 6 hours by 7 AM, when we were approaching Memphis. Another 45 minutes, then we had to board two buses for Dallas. The nice lady with five girls got on the other one. For this ride I had a 3-year old boy to help entertain. He and his mother and age-7 sister were heading for Yuma, Arizona. Hot area! In central Arkansas I was joined by a really pretty young black girl. She was quite sweet and nice, too. Up to Dallas I chatted with a fellow, a veteran, who was studying computer. He was strange, educated...I meet a real mix of people! Dallas, finally at 9:40. Heidi and her sweet girls Leslie and Rebecca met me. I got taken by a Moonie or some cultist for $2 on the street. Ach! But then on the road - we drove down by the Bible School (which The Climber had attended). Nothing was happening but it was nice to see the place again. Then we stopped at Charlotte's apartment. It was small, but nice. Charlotte has changed! She's independent, self-confident, more assured of herself-really neat. We chatted for awhile, had a great time. She is planning to move to Colorado Springs in August to "start over." Sounds good!

Well, Heidi drove me by her house - kind of in the countryish part of Dallas. It's quiet and safe, PTL! Pat B's house was dark, so we missed her. Then to Arden's. It was nice seeing him and staying up late - till 5:30. I was so tired! We played our usual and had some wine. I got somewhat headached. Oh well.

TT:21:30 TD: 875 Total 1388

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June 5 - Dallas, TX to Amarillo, TX

Up at about 12:30, but before we got up Arden was calling all over the US for temperature and weather. He called Honolulu, Phoenix, Estes Park, Colorado Spgs, my hometown and more - Crazy guy! I got to Trailways station at 3:15 and found I needed a sticker to get on the bus. That meant running 5 blocks in the Dallas sunshine and back, panting, hurrying. The bus didn't leave until 4, but it was too late to check the pack, so I had to put it on the bus in the aisle until Wichita Falls (TX). Plus I had to sit on the front steps because we had two too many! But it was OK; the driver was nice and very understanding. Texans are a nice bunch.

I chatted with a nice lady from Shreveport going to Lubbock. She was so sweet - Christian too. She encouraged me to continue on in the faith. On to Amarillo (TX), a very nice town (city). It is a plains city with skyscrapers too, and very clean. I was impressed. West Texas was interesting, but very flat. There were oil wells and fertile fields, but few of the mesa-type mountains of my San Angelo memory.

TT: 8:30 TD: 380 Total 1768

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June 6 - Amarillo, TX to Blue Arrow Campground in Rocky Mountain National Park, CO

We pulled out of Amarillo about 1 to start a very full day! I slept on the rack above the seats for several hours. Couldn't turn over, that was the worst part! I got down at Lamar, CO about 5 o'clock. After that I slept some more, but just had to look out at the interesting countryside. Flat, empty, treeless prairie lands and lots of sagebrush. There were some signs of cattle, but few towns or people. We saw some young antelope. The neatest thing was seeing the very top of Pike's Peak over the plains about 100 miles away. My first glimpse of the Rockies. I got so excited, felt like a little kid, but why not? On we went; the Peak rose and showed some flanks. Denver approached, all on the plains. Rocky and snow-covered peaks in the distance. The hills were definitely drier than at home, and not so covered with trees. It certainly doesn't resemble lush, green Virginia. Arrived in Denver at 9:30 AM. Got my luggage and found out I needed to pay $14 to get to Estes Park. What a drag! I contemplated not going, but I just had to. Besides, I got a fellow from Florida to go with me. Dean was heading for Cody, Wyo. to work at a ranch, but was not due in for a week. So, off we went after leaving 2/3 of my stuff in his suitcases in Denver. Enroute we met a girl from Findlay, Ohio on her way to work at the coffee bar in Estes Park. So we chummed up and spent the weekend together. Upon arrival I hitched a ride to get backcountry camping permits at the Park entrance. Gorgeous views there of Long's Peak (14,256'). Back in town I got supper, then Dean, Cindy and I hitched back and set up camp at Blue Arrow campground next to Park Headquarters (Rocky Mountain National Park). We pitched tents under a tree, but the forest was thin here, perhaps high elevation hurt it some. Estes Park is at 7522', surrounded by mountains, but in a valley. Only Long's Peak was above treeline at Estes Park. We hit the sack early - I was tired, but I also wanted to get up at sunrise.

TT: 12:10 TD: 510 Total 2278

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June 7 - Rocky Mountain National Park, CO/Estes Park, CO (Bierstadt Lake, Bear Lake, Trail Ridge Rd., Alpine Visitor Center)

And that's just what I did! I was very warm all night, the Hollofill is great! I woke up several times, but slept OK. Up at 6:20, temperature 37 degrees.

After my normal contact business we got around to getting breakfast using Cindy's stove. Course it wouldn't work right for 10 minutes, but we managed. Got all finished and cleaned up by 8:15, then walked to the Visitor Center. No shuttle buses of any type. Lord, bless my thumb! He did, amen! A girl who works at Sprague Lake stables took us there. Then we hiked out to the Bear Lake Rd. Ah, such views of snowy peaks. PTL! Then up a ridge to over 10,800' to Bierstadt Lake, high, cold, beautiful. We had lunch, peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, fruit and cookies. Back along the ridge toward Bear Lake we hit snow - all the way. Some took our weight, but not all of it.

My feet really got soaked. The morning was so beautiful, clear and sunny. From the ridge the mountains were really breathtaking, spectacular. God is alive! Finally we arrived at Bear Lake about 9600' or more amid dark clouds. It didn't rain, but it was cool. Bear Lake had ice on it still! The wildlife was great - varicolored birds and many chipmunks. Didn't see any big game. Oh, the ridges and formations were so great! Well, caught a ride back to Trail Ridge Rd. Dean and Cindy went down, but I got a ride into the high section with a lawyer from D.C. What a character! We drove into the clouds past deep gorges, high peaks, higher and higher, up past struggling trees, twisted and knarled, to a land of cold winds, fog, stubbly plants, and snow ranging up to 12' deep at road's edge (from the plows). There was much bare ground. The clouds created an interesting effect. We'd be in fog, then suddenly clear out to spectacular gorges dropping off 4000' beside us. It was cold - 40's and windy. The Alpine Visitor Center wasn't serving drinks because they ran out of their imported water! Well, got a ride back with a chap from R.I., a local lady, and an English fellow. They were out touring; she was showing him around the park. We stopped to look, feed birds and chipmunks, and photograph. On to Bear Lake for the same - twice in one day! Back to town, food and a look around. Nice town! - tourist oriented like Bar Harbor, but very nice. I was about to head back to camp when I ran into Phyllis and Robert. We stopped for coffee at a nice pizza joint reminiscent of the Pub. Then she took me to the campground. No Cindy or Dean! We searched the YMCA, a private campground, and found them at Cindy's apt. Phyllis was so helpful, a conservative old lady very young at heart. Lots of fun! Cindy's roommate came home and had a party, so I pitched tent outside and got about 5 hrs. sleep. Lord bless those kids, I read my Bible in the apt. before going out. Hope they were touched some by His hand.

TT: 9:00 TD: 295 Temperature 47 degrees at 7 AM Total: 2573

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June 8 - Estes Park, CO to Alamosa, CO (South Park, Fairplay, Salida, San Luis Valley)

Back to Denver at 8 o'clock, up early and everything. Sorted out all our stuff, got repacked, off on Trailways at 1:20. The mountains look so dry here, rocky (true to name) and sparsely wooded. It was quite a few miles in before I began to get impressed, seeing snowy peaks. These Rocky Mtns. just can't replace the Blue Ridge for lushness of vegetation. Of course right on top, the ridges are not as lush as the valley at home. But here, valleys are so high, with half or less the moisture, I guess they do very well. Well, we entered South Park, a flat, treeless valley surrounded by white peaks at 9000'. Amazing! I was really overwhelmed by these high mountain valleys. It was very dry, but irrigated areas were very green and pretty. Fairplay was an old gold-mining town. Salida was in another high prairie valley. Wild country! Outside of town there's nothing but sagebrush, horses, cattle, and peaks. It was cool too - 60's in the afternoon. Then on to the San Luis Valley, about as wide as the Shenandoah, but dry and flat. 6" rain yearly. Prairie where not irrigated. Very intriguing. I stayed at the Yucca Motel in Alamosa. Bed rest, hallelujah! Alamosa: 7544'

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June 9 - Alamosa, CO to Petrified Forest National (now) Park, AZ (Wolf Creek Pass - Durango, CO - Aztec & Gallup, N.M.)

Today was a wild day for travel and scenery. I got up about 7:30 and made breakfast at the motel - thank God for the facilities. I was due to meet Dave M. at 10 at the bus station. He was 45 minutes late; I had just made it at about 9:58 after a half-mile's walk. The property was 15 miles east of town and consisted of flat prairies next to the mountain. There was nothing around. Good idea to cancel! (Ed. Note: this was a piece of investment residential property that The Climber's parents had agreed to buy with the provision that they could visit it, then back out of the deal if not satisfactory. The seller agreed that The Climber could do the inspection.) Back in town I went shopping for a piece of foam to keep my waist from wearing thru while carrying the pack. Found one, PTL! Then at the bus station I decided to call Diane. That was fun - she was envious of my journeys, I'm sure. She was cracking jokes about what I was saying, etc., but I know she was enjoying talking to me. I got her to call Kaye - she did - Kaye had changed plans. No rendezvous, I'm afraid. I also asked her to call Grand Canyon to get me a permit to camp below the Rim, but she never called back before the bus left. I must call her later to see what happened. Well, we headed west again. I wrote in my journal, then we got to the mountains. Wolf Creek Pass was really spectacular. Deep gorges, high cliffs, flowers and trees. It was quite green to the west of the pass. Astounding difference, really. On to Durango with mountains and plateaus. Headed south then and entered N.M. at 5:46 PM. N.M. was different - plateaus, hills of rockslides, etc. - the Rockies fell behind rapidly. Even though Aztec, N.M. seemed like the real sticks with no large cities near, yet there were signs of civilization - a McDonalds. On to Gallup and west; entered Arizona at 10:15 MDT. I met another English fellow, a doctor, 31, traveling about for 2 weeks before heading home. Well, he was going where I was, so we got off the bus at a rest stop 4 miles from the Petrified Forest and set up camp. Ach, the ground was hard! We couldn't get the stakes down over 2" or so. We ended up using rocks for weights. Thank God it didn't collapse until morning!

TT: 10:00 TD: 392 Total 2965

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June 10 - Petrified Forest National Park to Grand Canyon National Park (Painted Desert loop, Petrified Forest area, Newspaper Rock, Meteor Crater, Flagstaff)

I woke up soon after dawn, and got up about 5:15 MST, used in Arizona. I wanted to see all we could before catching a bus to Flagstaff. It was 42 degrees. I never got cold but Leighton had only clothes and a towel for covering. He did get chilly! We made a fire, then discovered two long-haired "freaks" from Massachusetts who were hitching to California to work. They had slept all night on a picnic table - actually two nights! Well, we shared our fire, oatmeal, and raisins. Wow, they were really worldly - talking about rock music and chicks and ... - Pretty nice though. Leighton shook his head in disbelief at them later. Well, we packed up and took off, hoping the Petrified Forest was close. Distances are deceptive out West here. Things far away look so close in the thin air. I shouldered my pack and walked a long way to a sign only to read: "Petrified Forest National Park, exit 2 1/4 miles". Phew! On we went, but got a ride for the last mile. Walked 3 miles+ in about 3/4 hour or more along I-40. Well at the Visitor Center after the film, I was at the counter when some East Texans were discussing the Park. I asked for a ride and so began a wild day's journey in the back of an open Datsun pickup. First we drove around the Painted Desert loop, then down to the Petrified Forest area. Wow, what a wild, varied, dry landscape! Mesas, buttes, dry washes, lizards, and stubbly grass in every direction. It was quite desolate, but people (Indians) live there. North was Hopi and Navajo Reservation land. But it was neat and not unpleasantly hot either. 80's and dry! We spent quite a while in the Park, it was interesting. The ranger at Newspaper Rock was very interesting and friendly, trying to make her job interesting. Then, across miles of desert to Meteor Crater, then Flagstaff. The crater cost $3 to see. It was interesting, but we had to move on too quickly. Quite a large crater (nearly 1 mile) for a 90' meteor! About 600' deep. At Flagstaff the climate suddenly changes. Flat hot desert becomes rolling, wooded hills, 10 degrees lower temperatures, beautiful! We headed north thru ponderosa pine forests with some large white birches quite reminiscent of New Hampshire. High Humphrey's Peak showed off behind. Very nice! Arrived at Grand Canyon about 7 PM. I set up my tent as dusk fell, missing the Canyon sunset. Went to the cafeteria with Leighton, then hit the sack!

TT: 9:30 TD: 207 Total 3172

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June 11 - Grand Canyon National Park, AZ (Kaibab Trail, Inner Gorge, Phantom Ranch, Bright Angel Creek, Indian Garden)

Sore day! Up at 5:15 in 49 degrees to go see the Canyon. It was very hazy, but still attractive. The mind cannot fully grasp the immensity of the creation from a look at the Rim. Either the mind refuses to believe this is all one continuous, related water cut, or else it assumes it's like any common mountain-valley system. Well, after breakfast I caught a bus to Kaibab Trail. Began at 10:25. Down and down past levels of rock, Douglas fir, hotter and hotter. I left most other hikers behind after 2 miles and trekked on. I didn't stop or rest much, and didn't even need much water. About halfway down neither the Rim nor the view was visible. Really out in no-mans land! I passed some pack mules, a New Zealand couple, some Germans, and lastly some Americans down in the Inner Gorge. Wow, sheer, marbled rock cliffs! Higher up the layers were stratified, but down at the bottom the schist was all jagged, marbled, cut up - metamorphosed. I loved it! At the bottom was a 440' suspension bridge with one ton cables carried down by men spaced at 10' intervals. The river was a cold, refreshing 50 degrees. The Inner Gorge was very hot because of the lower elevation, and the absorbing qualities of the black rock. I walked an extra half mile to Phantom Ranch and bought a 60 cent glass of lemonade and had some soup. It was beautiful, tree-shaded next to Bright Angel Creek, and trees along the river. Quite nice, but hot! I had lunch at the campground, 103 degrees when I left, but dry. It didn't feel that hot, really. Quite windy also! I left the ranger station at 2:39 with 9.2 miles up. After a mile or more along the river I entered the gorges up & up. I met some more English fellows to walk with. We stopped some, but tried to keep moving. Indian Garden was a beautiful campground with water, shade, picnic tables and cooler temperatures. It was a pleasant afternoon - for lying around. Not so good for having 4 1/2 miles ahead yet! The dust on the trail was also bothering me. Well, further along I met a girl working there with Christian ministries. We had a nice chat about various things as we walked. Made each step lighter. Finally, at the top at 7:42. Total hike up: 5:03, total down 2:40. Total loop 9:18. Not bad. I was bushed!!! Went to the campsite to get shower supplies - so sore! Walked over to the cafeteria - could hardly stand in line for fear of fainting. I had some roast beef & stuffing and milk. Helped some - I went to the amphitheatre show & felt awful tired.

Then I went back and shared some of my faith with a girl from Eastern Shore, Md. (Minga) - a Quaker. She was really seeking God, PTL! Wish I could have chatted more, but had to hit the sack. 11:15. I was going to see her Thursday morning, but we missed each other. PTLA

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June 12 - Grand Canyon National Park, AZ to Mt. Carmel Junction, UT

I woke up about 7, but didn't get up for awhile - it felt better to lay there. Muscles were sore!! I didn't check the temperature because it was so late. After a great deal of slow-moving about, stretching etc., I finally made it up. I gathered shower supplies and took off for that. There was a line...out of there & to the store - I was starved! The sun was blinding me - I could hardly see. In Trailer Village I found my Texan friends about to go out for the day and got a ride to Mather. Cooked 3 eggs over a little twig fire hurriedly, then began packing. Julia & Dave came by at 10:05 and helped me finish packing, then off to Flagstaff. Got there and did my wash, eating in the laundromat. What a trip! Traveling out west by backpack is cutting up cantaloupe in a laundromat with a pocket knife, among other things. What a trip!

The bus was 2 hrs. late, but we had a nice trip. The Painted Desert was quite interesting, somewhat colorful. We entered Utah at 10:09 MDT. The driver let me off at Mt. Carmel Junction, 20 miles from Zion (National Park). I walked a half-mile up the road and found a sandy spot under a tree to pitch my tent. The ground was so soft here - far different from the Arizona desert near Petrified Forest!

TT: 8:20 TD: 317 Total 3489

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June 13 - Zion National Park (Angel's Landing hike)

I woke up chilly this morning, but just covered up and was fine. The bag is great - I never get cold except at my neck/shoulder area. I got up about 8:30 and had trouble inserting my contacts without a mirror, so I walked to the gas station, also bought some food. Back at camp I made a little fireplace with some big stones. I made a fire with some dry branches and scrambled my remaining three eggs, except for about 1/3 of the mixture which spilled on the ground. PTLA. I read Ps. 84 which has references to Zion in it. I was in a Zion mood! "How lovely are thy dwelling places, My soul longs for the courts of the Lord. My heart & my flesh sing for joy to the living God. You are my King & my God." I packed up and was just finishing making a sign saying ZION PLEASE when a German fellow drove up and picked me up. PTLA, a blessing of God! We drove to the Park - oh, how beautiful! There are just no words for the high, bare, sheer sandstone cliffs and shapes surrounding one on every side. Cameras had trouble because the panoramic view must be seen to be fully appreciated. Also, the cliffs are so high; it's hard to get a good shot with top and bottom. My brother spoke of Yosemite as being the most beautiful place he'd ever seen. Obviously, he hadn't been to Zion! (Editor's note - i.e. The Climber's brother - Yes I had been to Zion - Yosemite has the cliffs but also has waterfalls - so my opinion still holds - but both parks are in my top 5 favorites among U. S. National Parks.) Well, we hit the Visitor Center, then hiked up Angel's Landing. Wow, sheer drops of 1500' from the top. It was spectacular! Some places the trail was 3 - 10' wide with sheer cliffs on either side. Phew! Back down, Holgar & I and two friends he met at Bryce went out for supper. Ate so much - filled for once, PTL! It was great! A Good Friday the 13th. I hit the sack amid a mess - my normal.

TT: 1:00? TD: 25 Total 3514

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June 14 - Zion National Park to Salt Lake City, UT

Hallelujah, another day of seeing the Lord provide. I woke up at 7:15, refreshed and raring to go. Well, I had to pack. Then Holgar and I went to have some coffee, but ended up eating a whole breakfast. It was June 14, Valentine's Day at Zion Lodge since it wasn't open in Feb. We met some real sweethearts. My waitress was really nice, then I started chatting with another one from St. Louis, a Christian working with the Park ministry. That's twice in a row now! It sounded so exciting I may look into it for a future summer. Zion would be a fun place to work - the cliffs in the early morning light are just amazing. They take your breath away. So I had a great chat with Karen, a really sweet girl. Then at 9:30, time for the Lord to provide again. The bus was due in Hurricane about 11:30. Well, I started walking and caught a ride to the Visitor Center. I spent about half an hour there, then to the road. No traffic hardly! I walked towards the Park entrance hoping to have a better chance outside the Park. Time grew shorter...then, a girl in a Toyota pickup, open, picked me up. I rode in the back to Cedar City and beat the bus by an hour. PTL! She was heading for Idaho to work in the Nat. Forest. PTL! There I met a Washington fellow who'd been living in the wilds, traveling, etc. for 3 years. He ate game and whatever he could find. Wow! On to Salt Lake City - a beautiful town (city!). I went to the Mormon Temple Square. Quite a tourist attraction! The lawns are extremely well-manicured with green grass, flower beds, shrubs, etc. I went on a tour including the Tabernacle with the best acoustics I've ever heard. We could hear a pin drop at the front of the building. They had a presentation (loudly!) of the Book of Mormon, the history of Christ in the Americas. Quite fascinating. I finished by talking to a fellow & wife about the faith. Nice people, sincere, loving. Who am I to say they don't know God? I can accept them because it did seem like a genuine conversion in their cases. I must talk to Art M. (pastor back home) about them. Then I went to a movie and left at 11:30. I slept pretty well, but was put off at Idaho Falls at 5 AM in the rain! Cold too! Arugh!

TT: 7:20 TD: 327 Total 3841

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June 15 - Salt Lake City, UT to Grand Teton National Park, WY (Jenny Lake, Leigh Lake)

I am beginning to count the days remaining to Portland. Oh, don't think I'm not having a good time - a wild one for sure! But I will be glad to cease this travel by myself, spending money, setting up and tearing down all the time, etc., etc. Well, this morning rain was miserable. Fortunately I found a small upstairs hotel lobby to rest in and keep warm. All was fine until a drunk guy came and made so much noise, the lady finally threw us all out (two of us from the bus). Well, it was 6:15, so we went off for a warm breakfast with hot coffee. Mm, good! Again, back at the bus, my Ameripass was no good to Grand Teton National Park. $10.20 more out of the pocket. Once in Jackson I bought food, then got a ride to Jenny Lake. It was still drizzling. Well, I got a permit to hike to Trapper Lake & camp. I got there about 5:45 and didn't like it, so I went back to Leigh Lake. Arrived at 6:50, exhausted, wet (a little), hungry, etc. I set up, but had trouble with my fire. The wood was damp and refused easy burning. Also there was nothing large to put on it. Oh well, PTLA. I managed to cook several hot dogs and warm some beans. Went to sleep at 9:45 with the drizzle still coming down. But my tent was fairly dry and the bag was warm. PTL! In the morning I entered Wyoming for the first time at 10:15.

TT: 7:15 TD: 334 Total 4175

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June 16 - Grand Teton National Park, WY (Colter Bay...)

I woke up, stretched, woke up again, stretched, etc. I really didn't feel like getting up. Finally I made it out of the sack. I made a fire which burned a little better because I picked up twigs & branches from around a thicket of trees, figuring they'd be drier. I made French toast and hot chocolate and oatmeal and grapefruit. Might as well eat while you're at it! After cleaning up I felt so lazy that I crawled back in the tent to read and rest. I was also hoping the clouds would break and let me see the peaks across Leigh Lake. Finally about 1 PM things cleared except for little tufts of cotton resting on the higher peaks. I packed up and took off, also some pictures! It took an hour to get out, passed some canoeists, what fun! I ate some lunch, got a ride to the road, then another to Colter Bay. 50 cent fee for the night. I made supper then went for a walk before sunset along the lake. I saw a moose, watched the sunset. Ah, so nice to see blue sky, sunsets, clear water, etc. Minnesota's state bird (mosquito) was the only distraction. Then I showered and went to the amphitheater to see a neat show about Biological Communities of the Tetons. It was very interesting because we had a neat ranger, but down went the temperature. The last rays of sunlight left the sky at about 10:35. Incredible because sunset behind the mountains occurred at 8:10!

TT: 0:30 TD: 14 Total 4189

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June 17 - Grand Teton National Park, WY to Butte, MT

I woke up early to go for a walk to Swan Lake to look for wildlife. Interesting phenomenon: the dew on my tent was heavy, but not very wet, but also very cold. Ah ha. Out with the thermometer. 37 degrees in the tent - I had remained warm. Outside at 6:30 AM - 25 degrees and frost all over everything. Brrr! I dressed warmly and walked about 7 miles. I saw one moose, water birds (swan and/or herons), 4 groundhogs, ducks, chipmunks, a beaver dam and lodges, but no beaver and flowers. It was OK. After a visit to the museum I made breakfast, packed, and got to the main road at 12:10. My ride came at 12:35, two guys from near Newark, NJ, traveling in a pickup. Well, the talkative one had just gotten out of the Navy, clean-cut, etc. The other hadn't shaved for several days. Well, we rode up to Old Faithful, ate, watched it erupt at 3:06, then drove on to a place where there were mud pots, fumaroles, hot springs, and geysers. Very interesting. These guys were not so interested in spending large amounts of time gawking, so on we went arriving in W. Yellowstone at 5:10. Great! Again that state bird hassled me. (Entered Montana about 5:00). Caught the bus at 6:30 to Idaho Falls (ID). Much nicer this time - warm, nice sunset, lit up, pretty! At 10:35 I was squeezed onto a bus for Butte (MT), cramped and overcrowded. But I had a nice chat with a priest from Saskatchewan. Changed to Greyhound at 3 at Butte.

TT: 7:00 TD: 243 Total 4432

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June 18 - Butte, MT to Portland, OR (Spokane, WA - Seattle, WA - Space Needle - Mt. Rainier)

I was able to sleep better after Butte - the bus was not crowded. Also this Greyhound was more roomy than the Inter-mountain bus. We stopped at Superior, Montana. for breakfast. The electricity was off so no hot food. Back on the bus to Spokane (WA). I almost decided to get a Portland, Lincoln City bus, but decided to go on to Seattle. Central Washington was the pits, dry and warm with mesas like Arizona. Then the Cascades, ah, beautiful. Lots of them were lower and evergreen-covered similar to the Blue Ridge. Got to Seattle at 6 - pretty city! I ate, then walked to Seattle Center to see the Space Needle. It was very nice, being the site of the '62 World's Fair. There were rides, games, food, flowers, a delightfully lighted globe with spikes, an international bazaar, fountains, and more. I had a nice time but regretted the hurry I was in. Caught the bus at 7:45 and saw Mt. Rainier finally. It looked like a cloud floating above the haze, the lower parts being covered. On to Portland, arriving at 11:05. I walked about 10 blocks and found a spot above the freeway bank sheltered by some trees to set up the tent. I had a nice restful sleep despite the noise! Thanks Lord for providing a safe place without interference.

TT: 2125 TD: 918 Total 5350

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June 19 - Portland, OR to Lincoln City, OR

I woke up at dawn but didn't get up until 8:20. It was a nice place to rest, considering all the noise and everything. I walked downtown and stopped for breakfast, then called Diane from the Portland Hilton. We had a nice chat for about half an hour. Rather, I talked a half hour! It was great to hear her voice, I told her I'd stop by to see her on the way home. Actually, I asked her out for lunch too! She accepted. Well, well. Then I did my wash and met Tony Layman at the bus station. The van finally arrived at 3:30. We had a nice drive to Lincoln City and got all situated. It was really cold on the coast! The people are nice and I think we'll have a great time! After supper we had an orientation, shower & bed at 10:15.

Editor's Note: This Journal continues with The Climber's Cross-Country Outspokin' Bicycle Trip.

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